Without exception, the Cellar Doors have been great with attractive but simple decor using lots of wood and stone. Most of the vintners do not charge for tastings, and some only charge if you do not make a purchase. Our undereducated but eager to learn palates were never made to feel inadequate, but of course cellar doors are there to sell wine.
Marlborough Wine Trail
While there are other grape producing areas, 52% of the wines in New Zealand come from Marlborough. Not surprising then that tasting wine is a major tourist draw to this area and as November draws to an end we are seeing people arriving in much greater numbers, especially Americans. Brown "point of interest" Marlborough Wine Trail signs are all around between Blenheim and Renwick. Paper maps are readily available as well.
We've often remarked that the region reminds us of California -- vineyards with a backdrop of grassy rolling green hills that turn brown in the summer -- a compelling landscape for an afternoon drive. Wine tour vans transport from winery to winery for responsibility-free tasting. Bicycle touring is another way to see the wineries and vineyards, but is one of those activities that sounded good before we got here. With no bike paths and with tourists still learning which side of the road to be on, we don't see how this could be safe or fun, especially after a drink or two. It is also seems a bit overwhelming to attempt to seriously evaluate wines by spending the entire day tasting. Our biggest tasting day included just three wineries, and we preferred to visit just one per day. In any case, a tasting day will conclude in the late afternoon as the vineyards close between 4-5PM. We tasted at about a baker's dozen of vineyards in the Marlborough region.
Without exception, the Cellar Doors have been great with attractive but simple decor using lots of wood and stone. Most of the vintners do not charge for tastings, and some only charge if you do not make a purchase. Our undereducated but eager to learn palates were never made to feel inadequate, but of course cellar doors are there to sell wine.
Without exception, the Cellar Doors have been great with attractive but simple decor using lots of wood and stone. Most of the vintners do not charge for tastings, and some only charge if you do not make a purchase. Our undereducated but eager to learn palates were never made to feel inadequate, but of course cellar doors are there to sell wine.
Keeping it Local
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Roses blooming at our home in Blenheim |
We've been to the movies which was not remarkably different than back home. A stroll in Pollard Park and Centennial Rose Garden was a lovely way to spend the afternoon. In fact, roses are in full bloom all over town and at our front door.
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NZ flag at half mast |
Right after we returned from our trip we were very saddened to watch the Pike River coal mine disaster unfold. This happened in Greymouth, the small coastal town we visited on our first day in Westland. Our sympathies go out to the families of these victims and to all New Zealanders for their loss.
One night our neighbor invited us to attend the Marlborough Camera Club meeting at which everyone shared two pictures for consideration by the group and ultimately the group leader. The focus of the group leaned heavily toward competing in photography contests, and we came away with a few new insights and it was fun to meet some new people.
You might be shocked to learn that we ate at McDonalds one night. We never eat there back home, but just wanted to have a kiwi Micky D's experience to compare. Our Quarter Pounder and Filet 'O Fish were just like in the States, although the inside of the fish box said that the fish came from local waters. Adjacent to the fast food counter was the "McCafe" counter -- their fare was nothing like McDonalds. With spinach quiche, deli sandwiches, Lamingtons and slices in a standard kiwi refrigerated display case, it looked like an earthquake had bumped a small local cafe against a McDonalds!
Susan was thrilled to finally visit Elite Pavlova, the Pav and Pie shop that we had driven past frequently, and enjoyed eating Pavlova on Thanksgiving. It was a bit strange to be in a land where Thanksgiving is not observed. But if you have Turkey Day with us next year, don't be surprised if the dessert it Pumpkin Pavlova!
We visited the well done Marlborough Museum. Displays of Maori and early European settler life are overshadowed by the Wine Exhibit, funded by local vintners. Also along these lines, we have done considerable catching up on our wine tasting outings, the subject of our next post.
Ward Beach and White's Bay (November 28)
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Surf at Ward Beach |
The road took us through rolling hills, past a limestone quarry and ended at a large car park with signs warning to place nets in a manner that would not endanger any Hector's Dolphins in the area. We didn't spot any dolphins, but it was a great day for birding and the beauty of nature.
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Susan at Ward Beach |
Soon a Banded dotterel caught our attention and Susan stopped to observe him while Mike was drawn ahead towards a whole dotterel family -- seven birds in all. Meanwhile, Susan's dotterel continued to attract her attention by vocalizing loudly as he raised up tall and straight with chest puffed up big. It became clear that he wanted to draw her attention away from a nest, so Susan took the bait and followed him to a pile of leaves and bull kelp. As he flew away, Susan stood still and watched as he revealed the nest site. A lone stick in a sea of gray stones marked the spot where three little pale green speckled eggs lay.
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Banded Dotterel at nest with 3 eggs |
Farewell Spit (Nov 17-19)
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View of Nelson, across Tasman Bay |
We stayed at the Heron's Rest, a cozy B&B with views of Golden Bay from our room and the deck. We arrived to find an an envelope with our names on it taped to the front door. The note inside invited us to could come in and get settled, explaining that our hostess, Maureen, had forgotten about her hair appointment in Takaka. Maureen only knew that a couple named Mike and Susan were driving in from Blenheim -- she didn't even need a credit card to hold our room. This all seemed very normal to us, but we reflected back on how surprised we would have been to find this level of trust at the beginning of our trip.
Glenorchy & Arrowtown (Nov 14-15)
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Lake Wakatipu on the way to north to Glenorchy |
Stewart Island (Nov 11-13)
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Obligatory photo |
Stewart Island/Rakiura, home to Rakiura National Park, is the third largest island of New Zealand with a permanent population around 400. The island's Maori name, Rakiura, translates to 'glowing skies,' a reference to the long twilight sunsets or southern lights.
We'd heard stories about the ride across the Foveaux Strait being rough going, but the little white bags tucked in near every seat were not needed today as the sea was calm. We saw a few pelagic birds en route including albatross, and our captain also pointed out a shark diving vessel. There is some talk of allowing tourists to swim with the Great Whites in cages previously used to study the sharks, but there is considerable resistance to the idea.
Queenstown (Nov 9-10)
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Cameron Flats on Haast Highway |
Back in familiar Wanaka, we stopped for gas in preparation for the scenic drive to Treble Cone Ski Field but the unsealed road up was closed. Last time here a flat tire cut short the Mt Aspiring scenic drive so now we *really* must return to Wanaka.
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Lake Hawea |
Haast, End of The Road and Penguins (Nov 8-9)
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Monro Beach |
We drove on down to Haast, stopping at lookouts along the way. With limited options in tiny Haast, we checked into a forgettable motel, ate a quick lunch, then watched a film at the large Haast Visitor Center. The center's employees didn't seem to know much about Fiordland Cresteds at Monro Beach and suggested that the rare birds' comings and goings were random throughout the day, rather than more common at dusk. We were dubious, not because we're penguin experts, but we did understand that penguins nest on land, this was nesting season, and every other penguin encounter we'd had involved the penguins coming ashore in the evening to feed their chicks. But maybe the Fiordlands were different. We continued to discuss a second 90 minute hike in a day to Monro Beach to try to see them at dusk.
Herons, Kiwis and Glaciers (Nov 4-7)
Part I: The Birds
It was still raining when we finally headed towards Franz Joseph Glacier where we'd booked ahead three nights in the heavy tourist area. We stopped at Whataroa to confirm our booking on Friday's White Heron Colony Tour, then drove on in. Low clouds still obscured our view, but after unloading the car we headed out anyway to have a look around. The drive through town revealed much less tourist action than we anticipated and could by no means be described as busy.
From the Glacier Access car park, we decided to do one or two short walks, but were compelled to continue all the way out to the glacier face in the cool rain. We immediately liked the rainforest juxtaposed with snow and ice. Waterfalls were all around the deep glacial valley and as the clouds lifted, even more were revealed. Suddenly a deep and echoing "crack" filled the valley as ice dropped off the glacier, producing a waterfall right on the glacier face. Competing for our attention, chunks of rock tumbled from the steep mountain of lateral moraine to our right, a little close for Susan's comfort. But we were well within the DOC yellow ropes defining the safe area, which was modified frequently as glacier conditions changed.
Just outside of the village we grabbed dinner. The local pub filled with regular Joe's served simple fare, and the proprietor kept everybody in line with her friendly banter.
With two birding tours booked, Friday would be a long day, so we slept in. The first tour out of Whataroa (pronounced Phataroa) was to see the only nesting colony of White Herons, or Kotuku in New Zealand. These are not the same species as the White Heron in the US, although the English common names are the same. The area around the nesting colony is protected and the only way to see it is through this DOC-concessioned tour, which limits the number of visitors per tour as well as the number of tours per day. To get to the colony, a short bus ride took us to the jetty where we boarded a jetboat. The agile little craft weaved its way through the shallow and braided Waitangi Taona River surrounded by thick bush giving way to ocean views near the end.
It was still raining when we finally headed towards Franz Joseph Glacier where we'd booked ahead three nights in the heavy tourist area. We stopped at Whataroa to confirm our booking on Friday's White Heron Colony Tour, then drove on in. Low clouds still obscured our view, but after unloading the car we headed out anyway to have a look around. The drive through town revealed much less tourist action than we anticipated and could by no means be described as busy.
From the Glacier Access car park, we decided to do one or two short walks, but were compelled to continue all the way out to the glacier face in the cool rain. We immediately liked the rainforest juxtaposed with snow and ice. Waterfalls were all around the deep glacial valley and as the clouds lifted, even more were revealed. Suddenly a deep and echoing "crack" filled the valley as ice dropped off the glacier, producing a waterfall right on the glacier face. Competing for our attention, chunks of rock tumbled from the steep mountain of lateral moraine to our right, a little close for Susan's comfort. But we were well within the DOC yellow ropes defining the safe area, which was modified frequently as glacier conditions changed.

With two birding tours booked, Friday would be a long day, so we slept in. The first tour out of Whataroa (pronounced Phataroa) was to see the only nesting colony of White Herons, or Kotuku in New Zealand. These are not the same species as the White Heron in the US, although the English common names are the same. The area around the nesting colony is protected and the only way to see it is through this DOC-concessioned tour, which limits the number of visitors per tour as well as the number of tours per day. To get to the colony, a short bus ride took us to the jetty where we boarded a jetboat. The agile little craft weaved its way through the shallow and braided Waitangi Taona River surrounded by thick bush giving way to ocean views near the end.
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